Sabbatical 1

It's hard to believe that I am already more than 3 weeks into our 4-month sabbatical. The first fortnight was spent in Antigua. We arrived home last week to the news that Jude (our youngest) had at last secured the purchase of her new house, after 5 months of negotiations, and the building project was about to begin. A lot of renovation work is required, including total re-wire, damp-proof course, new floorboards and central heating system. Then, of course, there is the decorating. It will be early to mid-January before she can actually move in. So I have spent a few hours this week labouring for Jude. This wasn't foreseen when we planned the sabbatical, but the timing is perfect and I'm glad to be able to help. Meanwhile, we are also awaiting the birth of our 4th grandchild, due last Sunday.

The holiday in Antigua was truly a holiday of a lifetime - Les's and my ruby wedding present to each other. It was a wonderful experience. The travel arrangements worked perfectly, and we so much enjoyed our time with both staff and other guests at the small beach resort (couples only!) where we stayed. It wasn't all sunshine: November has the highest rainfall, but the local people said it was much more than usual. We even had a tropical storm, after which we were serenaded all night long by Cuban tree frogs! Mind you, Caribbean rain and English rain are very different, the former being soft, warm, and torrential in short bursts. It was never cold enough to wear more than shorts and t-shirts. Here is a picture of the view from our lodge, over the beach to the Sea, and one glorious sunset. Note the 'Bali beds' on which you recline, with some shelter, on the beach. That's providing you can get there, with your towel, in time. (It wasn't just the Germans!!)

We had agreed before we went that we would just 'be': enjoy the warmth, the rest, and each other's company. We swam and read, and enjoyed the great hospitality of our hosts. Les developed quite a liking for pina colada (coconut cream, pineapple juice and rum)! The only excursions we made were to church on the Sunday and a full-day tour of the island.

Church was an experience - the local Anglican church about 5 miles away. One of the staff was a member there, and her husband a recently-ordained deacon. It was their harvest festival, and very English, sad to say! We sang 'Come ye thankful people, come', 'We plough the fields', and even 'All things bright and beautiful', though thankfully with more appropriate verses! It felt rather odd, to be honest - imported religion, like many other aspects of Antiguan life. On the other hand, it was good to feel part of a world-wide Anglican family. People really dress up to go to church, especially the women; there was a robed choir. In fact, there was little 'Caribbean' about the service at all apart from the sermon (lots of 'Amens' from the congregation) and the length (2 hours!). For the Lord's Prayer, all stand and link hands across the church, raising them up when it comes to 'Thine is the kingdom...' Might try that at All Hallows sometime!

The day excursion was both impressive and sorrowful. Our driver/guide was Alvin. We introduced ourselves, saying we were from Liverpool, and I acknowledged the historic connection between our city and his country through the slave trade (the Liverpool/West Africa/Caribbean 'triangle'.) I said I was ashamed and deeply sorry for what the British had done to his ancestors. This rather opened the door for some fairly deep and personal conversations later in the tour, which included a visit to a museum and a former sugar plantation. You could almost hear the cries of the slaves - quite an atmosphere about the place. We talked about contemporary slavery, the continued denigration of black people, and Alvin's hope that one day the British government might make reparation for the slave trade, as Germany had done more recently for its treatment of the Jews.

Twice Alvin serenaded us! The first time, a love-song for our marriage, as he drove along; the second, in the parish church where he grew up,where he sang, tunefully and sonorously 'You raise me up'. Here he is:

Alvin would like to form his own Gospel band, he informed us. He then sang a couple of Christian songs he'd composed himself. He had a great voice.

There were several highlights to the tour, including two particular reminders of Antigua's colonial past. We went to 'Devil's Bridge', the easternmost tip of Antigua. Here there is the awesome sight of the Atlantic - next stop, Africa. Awesome, because we marvelled at the sheer skill and courage of early mariners navigating these fearsome waves in sailing ships; awesome too - and tragically - because here thousands of slaves perished. They came to seek death by drowning as the only escape from their servitude. Here are Les and me, at the point where slaves would have jumped, the crashing waves of the ocean behind.

The other highlight was English Harbour, which is what it says! An amazing natural harbour where Nelson and other English sailors berthed their fleet, while protecting traders from pirates or foreign attack. This photo was taken from Shirley Heights, named after Sir John Shirley: an important look-out post from where signals were sent to the navy below to warn them of possible invaders.

When we later visited the Harbour, we found many of the 18th century buildings still in use, and the harbour still a busy place - now more usually for millionaires' yachts!

This was a very special time for us both. We have returned, rested and refreshed, to our English winter. It has been a powerful history lesson and we are so aware of how history shapes our present. A fact as true in Antigua as it is in England. Much to think about.

Now I'm beginning to establish a sabbatical routine, which includes writing a journal and daily study of the Psalms. One of my aims during this period is to understand more what it means to be 'blessed' and to be a blessing. The Psalms seems to be a good place to start, with  its often-repeated calls to bless the Lord and to trust him in order to receive his blessing.